Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Ants, Cake, LANs

I told you already about the safari ants.

Two nights ago, I had another dance with ants. As I was going to bed, I unwittingly smushed a really small ant I felt crawling over me. Thanks to experience gained sophomore yearin Dan Reades room in CLC, I know that when you squish an ant, it releases a pheremone that attracts any nearby (and maybe even far away) ants. It seems a little counter-evolutionary, doesnt it? I squished or flicked one or two more, only making matters worse, before I realized what was going on..and then I looked around on the floor.

Now, I'm not saying they were everywhere...I'm just sayin.

There were a lot... After a while of just trying to keep them out of my bed, I decided to step things up a little. I havent had to use it much at all since I've got here, but I have two bottles of verrrry potent bug repellant. I wasnt sure it would work on ants, so, using some on a qtip, I drew a little circle around one of the ants crawling across the floor. It worked perfectly- the ant could not cross this invisible wall! And was running around in this little circle, trapped. After a little while it stopped moving, I dont know if it died or just got tired or what, but that was good enough for me. I then painted some of this wonderful toxin around the wooden legs of my bed frame. After getting rid of the few that remained on my bed, I was safe! Protected by an imaginary wall.

Yesterday morning I went to the primary school to see if I could do anything with their computer lab. In short, I could not. Things were basically either missing hard drives or wouldnt even turn on, and someone else had gone through it all a few months ago and left notes on how things were. So, I thought my time could be better used elsewhere.

At this very moment, Angela and I are experimenting with a tiny toaster oven she got for her house- we are making two little chocolate cakes! And it smells so amazing. I know they will be delicious, I wish we didnt have to wait for after dinner..

I spent today mapping out the network connections at the complex, labelling all the wires and figuring out what goes where. Once or twice, I had to fix some of the ethernet jacks, which proved to be a little difficult without the proper tools. With a little determination (or the knowledge that there was no other option), a handy little pocket knife, and a little bit of swearing, I got all the computers in administration connected to the network. Success. Once all of the computers in the hospital wards are fresh and clean, we will connect those as well, get the server going, and then hopefully have a fully functioning network where all the medical records can easily be shared. That is the ultimate goal, and I think it is within reach, although it might not happen before I leave (but thats ok).

I am considering going to see the mountain gorillas, of which there are only 200 in the world, all residing in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. What is holding me back, besides not knowing if they are fully booked yet, is the $500 cost. We shall see.

Friday, June 11, 2010

Kasese


Yesterday, after spending the night with Mercy's family (not the greatest night of sleep ever but, it was an experience..), we took a day trip to Kasese, the nearest bigger small town around. Patrick (Mercy's husband) needed to get some things with their car fixed, and Angela and Jeff came also, as they just moved into a little cabin for their 5 month stay and needed some things to fix it up with. I was on a mission to buy fabrics, beautiful ones, called kitenges (ki-teng-gays), the patterned cloths that the African women make their dresses out of. Kitenge is the Kenyan word for it, I guess (Mercy and Patrick are Kenyan). Mom will be satisfied to know I was very successful in this mission! While Jeff found a tailor and was being measured for a suit, Mercy took Angela and I around a market filled with stalls that were lined with these fabrics..covering the tables and hanging from bars along the tops. There were so many to chose from, I got some here, some there, some over there, and a few more from just over there. We had lunch at a very nice and expensive (~$7 a meal) hotel that had a beautiful view of the Rwenzoris. None of the pictures I have taken come close to doing justice to them...they look so huge, and lush, carpeted with green, instead of jagged and rocky.

As I'm sure you all know, the World Cup started Friday evening, I watched with a bunch of people at Mercy's. Almost everyone is watching the games when they are on. It is a big deal for Africa! Last night I watched the UK-US game with Craig and Hannah (two brits who got here just a few days ago, med students).
What else.. I have really been enjoying the macro feature on my camera, the flowers here are so beautiful, and so different.
Today, I slept in a bit, which felt really good but I missed breakfast. The girls in the kitchen (I say "in," but it is outside) made me something when they saw I was up, I think they like me =). Later I went with some people to Kingfisher Lodge, to eat really good food and go swimming. The lodge was situated on side of a huge hill, looking out at a huge vista, African plains scattered with acacia trees and cactus trees. On our way back from Kingfisher, we stopped at the equator again for some pictures.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Boat Safari

On Tuesday, I worked in the morning, this time using a little known security loophole to hack into windows and change administrator passwords, which nobody here knew. Without those passwords, we could not install antivirus software, or do much else.

After that finished, I hurried back to my room to get my things ready for a boat safari! I had made plans the day before to go with the two Canadians and two Germans to Queen Elizabeth National Park (QENP) for lunch at one of the resorts, a boat safari, and then swimming in their pool if there was time! We had said to meet at 10:45, to leave at 11, but I have still not gotten accustomed to Africa time...everyone gathered at 11:30ish, and we left closer to 12. Unfortunately, we got stopped along the way by immigration officers, and since we did not all have our passport/visas, we had to turn and go back. We were actually threatened; if we did not come back to that roadblock shortly, they were going to come to Kagando and find us. ! I thought that was a bit unnecessary...but anyway when we came back with all our papers, the officer was much friendlier (it seemed at that point he had his hands full with some other people trying to pass through...it looked like he was giving them a hard time).

We finished the 30-60 minute drive to the park, passing over the equator! Got to the park, with just enough time, Africa time, to have lunch before going on the boat trip. The trip was originally scheduled for 2 and we had wanted to get there at 12, but we arrived closer to 1:30 and the boat didn't leave until 3. The resort, by the way, was very high class, airconditioning, big glass windows, fancy everything,...$80/night! And all of the other guests there seemed to be senior citizens (or almost) from the US, in their khaki safari costumes, ready to witness the wild.

The boat trip was awesome, it was a beautiful day (as every day is here), and our guide told us much about the animals we saw. The boat went along the channel that connected Lake Edward to Lake George, two huge freshwater lakes that eventually flowed into the Blue Nile. I think their source was at the top of the Rwenzori mountains, where there is snow that is melting year round.

On the 'safari' we saw tons of hippos (more than 2 thousand live in the channel), lots of buffalo, small and huge birds (kingfishers, eagles, pelicans, cranes/storks, etc), a couple of alligators, and on our way out of the park, two baboons! The baboons were really awesome to see..their faces were so intense. I got a few good pictures. We also saw a few elephants by the water, drinking. It was an excellent trip, but we all wanted to go back another time, early in the morning, for the game drive, where you have a much better chance of seeing the lions and other land animals. You have to go early in the morning, when it is still cool out. That is when the lions hunt.

Lunch by the way was very good, they had a very decent menu filled with things we were all familiar with, no rice, no beans, and no banana things. Also it was pretty cheap, I had a steak sandwich and a drink for ~$7. We did have to pay a fee to enter the park also, $18.

Lets see, after that we came home, stopping for some pictures along the equator (I'm not sure this was actually the location of the equator, but it was fun anyway).

Yesterday, Wednesday, was good, apparently it was a national holiday, Hero's Day. I got a tour of the rest of the hospital, some parts of which made me feel rather uncomfortable, I must say (and thats all I'll say..). Mercy took me around to where all the computers were. All of them need work, as they are either not functioning now or are barely functioning because of viruses. I think the best solution is to install Linux on most if not all of the computers. I mentioned some reasons in a previous entry for why this is a good idea, another reason is that, although these people have limited Windows skills as it is, they have an even lesser understanding of Linux, which should make it a lot harder for things to get messed up. 6 computers are allowed access to the internet, and they are mostly in administration.

Today, more work on ridding computers of viruses will be done, although it seems many of them are so infected that antivirus software some times cannot even be run, and reformatting and reinstalling the OS will work the best.

Ohh yeah also last night as Mercy and I was walking along the path to her home for dinner, I noticed a small flow of ants, Safari ants! across the path. They were moving with intense purpose it seemed, to what or from where I know not, but I took some pictures, and even a video. On our way back, in the dark, we forgot about them, and only remembered once we started feeling little stings around our feet. We did a little dance, franticly at first but then laughing, to get them off. It was pretty funny, but might not have been if their bites had hurt just a little more.

Here is a picture of lunch yesterday (wait for it..), it was the blandest lunch yet, but the first meal I took a picture of. It was just mashed potatoes and some tomato-bean sauce. Usually there is more to it, I'll get pictures of the better meals soon. The second picture was todays lunch, spinach, spaghetti, and underneath the spaghetti was some kind of omelet, it was very good, some much needed protein.

Sunday, June 6, 2010

Friday - Sunday, Work and Trips to the Orphanage, a Village, and a Market

It turned out that Geoff was an IT specialist back in the UK, and so the next day he came along as Mercy showed me around and we began to assess at least some of the situations that our attention could possibly rectify.

I had been nervous in the days leading up to this day about how helpful I would be. Although I had these two degrees in this very advanced field, I felt I had little experience, or at least, my experience was limited to lab projects designed to work in the end, and I did not want to try things that could make matters worse. Within an hour of working with Geoff and Mercy, however, I felt so much better. In that first hour, we assessed that all of these industrial sized un-interruptable power sources (UPSs), which are large batteries you charge up with AC power, were, unfortunately, useless. They had been donated from Ireland and other parts of Europe, probably as scrap that was cheaper to send here than have disposed of properly. What it boiled down to was that the energy resources here would never, ever be able to supply the 16A and amount of power required to charge up these UPSs, and so they could not be used here. :(

There was another smaller UPS that did show some promise. Although it did not seem to be recieving enough power either, we thought perhaps the power it was receiving was just not clean/stable enough, it did function as a surge protector and Mercy had been running her desktop computer with. After trying to charge it with some other equipment and at different locations, we realized that this UPS, too, would not be able to recieve enough power to charge here.

From there, we went to a computer in the hospital where staff enter patient records and data. Due to viruses brought in by previous internet connections (there was no connection now) and by people connecting USB drives that had picked up things in public internet cafes, the computer would LOSE this data, routinely. The first steps to take there, we decided, would be to install anti-virus software I had brought down, maybe re-install the OS, and then instate a restricted access system to these computers, or to the USB ports, which Mercy would regulate.

Besides cleaning up all the other computers around, other network connections and wirings need to be fixed/created/secured, organized, and documented so that when Mercy leaves, her successor will have some idea of what is going on.

Ok, so that was Friday. On Saturday, Geoff and I did more work with the computers, fixing some computers in administration and also a linux computer that had been used for running
OpenMRS, an open source web-based medical records system that had been working a few months ago. It was set up by another volunteer, but stopped working shortly after he
left and had been sitting collecting dust ever since. Getting the system to work again required hacking in to the computer and changing administrative settings and passwords. Once we fixed those things, the computer worked very well, and now the use of OpenMRS needs to be reinstated. People will need to be taught how to use it. Because of the nature and availability of open source software and linux's low susceptibility to viruses, it is the most ideal OS for computeres here.

We spent the morning working with Mercy and then broke for lunch. By now, I had met Colin, a doctor from Scotland who had been here for some time, and newlyweds Jeff and Angela, a doctor and nurse, respectively, who had arrived then night before. We had lunch in the guest house (spaghetti, cabbage, bananas? and something else I think) before going on a little adventure in the afternoon.

A quick word about bananas- in the rest of the world, there is one kind of banana, the genetically enhanced and stately Cavendish. And it is sweet. Here, there is a different kind of banana for everything- there is a sweet one for eating fresh, a starchy one for cooking (like potatoes), one for juice, one for fermenting, and I think the list goes on.

Saturday afternoon was very exciting. I mentioned that Geoff was here working on introducing the bio-sand filters here. This afternoon, he was going to go to the orphanage
in Caberisi (?) where John was working to check on the progress of two sand filters that had been set up there. Angela and I went along with him, each of us riding on the back of a motorcycle, or boda boda, whos drivers we had negotiated the price of the trip with before leaving. We knew what was an appropriate fare, and haggled our way mostly there from 8000 ush to 4000 ush, there and back.

The orphanage was beautiful, and the children were all friendly and adorable. They loved holding our hands and being picked up, and the smaller ones all wanted to be picked up and given a little toss in the air (you know what I mean). There were 4 houses, with a 5th one being built, where the children and mothers/caretakers lived. One was designated for the youngest babies, and there, each mother slept in a room with anywhere from 3 to 8 babies, some in cribs, and up to 4 in their beds with them. The mothers of the children at the orphanage had died in childbirth. The houses were constructed very well, it was a very good establishment, started by one woman on her own a long time ago, and run now by her daughter, I think.

The sand filters were working wonderfully, Geoff even performed the Muzungu Test, drinking a cup of water himself, and survived (muzungu is the term for white person).

We returned to Kagando where Angela decided to stay, and then Geoff and I went on in the other direction to a village where he had a friend he needed to visit. I went along for the opportunity to see a real village and local people and to see the sand filter he had helped set up there, which I was very interested.

For this portion of the ride, I rode the boda boda sidesaddle, which is the appropriate way for a lady to ride. On the first ride Angela and I rode the normal way, facing forward, since that seemed the safest and most sensible thing to do. Although I'm sure it was a spectacle for the locals, as muzungus, we could get away with it. We were a spectacle anyway. Riding sidesaddle, however, was really fun! And not that scary. They didnt go tooo fast.

So, we went to this village, Chujwende (? stab in the dark) and rode the boda bodas through a forest of banana trees and other lush foliage to the home of Geoff's friend, Yokinara (?). Yokinara had a number of projects he was working on; he had a chicken coop, where he raised chickens to sell to people and harvested eggs. He also had a few cows, which we got to see being milked. Geoff was bringing him a digital camera, along with a battery charger and rechargable batteries for it. We showed them how to use it, had some ginger tea, and then walked to another home where the sand filter Geoff was coming to check on was.

The pot used in this sand filter was ceramic, locally made, while the filters at the orphanage were cement. Unfortunately, the potter that had been making these pots had recently been attacked. He had several pots made, locked in a store room which was broken into, and the pots were smashed. It turns out the people who make their
livings off of selling water (bottled, I guess) were not happy with the idea of these pots providing clean sustainable drinking water for all. Someone had also broken a pipe that delivered clean spring water to people, and clogged it with an avocado pit.

We met more friends of Geoff's there, including the headmaster of the primary school in the village, who was also a priest. The entire village was returning from a burial, a 38 year old man had died of malaria.

There were little children everywhere, who smiled such big smiles if I waved to them or said hello to them in their language. They loved having their picture taken and then getting to see themselves on the screen. I got some cute photos of me with a bunch of children (I tried to upload some last night but it didnt seem to be working...so I'm not sure I'll be able to get any posted here anytime soon...). There were banana trees everywere, as I said, and also coffee plants and jackfruit, which I tried and enjoyed although I cannot really describe what it tastes like. We signed the guestbook and I was invited to come back some time for dinner.

Geoff and I returned to Kagando, waving the entire way at people staring (and waving) at us as we rode by, and paid our boda boda drivers the agreed fee, plus a little extra for waiting for us at each place. If they didnt wait for us, it would have been very difficult to get another ride back.

An exciting day, yes! Kirsty, Colin's girlfriend and also a doctor from Scotland, had just returned from an interview back at home, and so at dinner we had a full table: myself, Geoff, John, Angela, Jeff, Colin and Kirsty. Accents, accents, all around! We said our farewells to Geoff and John, who were leaving very early the next morning.

By the way, the weather has been rather gorgeous here. The temp has been staying between 70 and 85ish, I think, and there have been a few very satisfying thunderstorms in the evenings. Also, there are very few mosquitos, I have only actually seen maybe 4 since I am here. Ah, just saw a 5th. I have seen some lizards crawling on the walls inside, and a praying mantis has been hanging out on the porch outside the dining room for some time. There is also an elusive blue tailed lizard which I have tried several times to get a picture of, against its wishes, it seems.

Sunday was nice, everyone went to church and I had the morning to myself pretty much. I took care of some paperwork and planning, and started cataloguing all the computers here.
After lunch, Angela, Jeff and I walked to the marketplace in the village to buy some supplies and to look at fabrics. There is a shop with several different printed fabrics, and then there are one or two tailors who you bring the fabric to and have a dress or something made. I bought two lengths of a print that I liked, but am waiting to go to Kasese (a larger town) sometime to see what else there is. I'm not sure if I want to make clothing out of it or bring it home for something else.

Today was a relaxing day.

Saturday, June 5, 2010

My first day in Kagando

After 4 days of traveling, I finally reached my destination, Kagando, Uganda, Thursday evening around 6pm. I took a cold shower and rested for a brief spell. It had been a long journey: After a 12 hour flight I spent a night in Dubai, which was interesting to say the least. At midnight, I went on a tour of the city, so colorfully lit up in all its man-made desert-oasis glory. We saw the tallest building in the world, the palace where the UAE VP, prime minister, and ruler of Dubai (all the same person) lives, some other ridiculous palaces, Atlantis! (the hotel..), the Palm Islands!, the largst shopping mall in the world, etc. Learned a fair amount about the city, and tested the waters of the Persian Gulf, which felt quite close to boiling. I forgot to mention it was 91 degrees all night.


I left early the next morning and boarded a plane which stopped briefly in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, before touching down in Entebbe, Uganda. Max, a prospective UofR PhD student was waiting for me (we had communicated through email) and he helped me get from Entebbe to Kampala, a drive which took about an hour, and helped me to a decent place to exchange money and purchase a wireless USB modem. Sweet. Max was awesome, very cool and friendly, besides incredibly helpful, going quite far out of his way to help me, including having booked me a room at a good hotel. It was too late in the day to make the journey from Kampala to Kagando. I slept. Sort of. Early the next morning, Max and I went to catch a bus to Fort Portal, where I would be meeting up with someone from KARUDEC to bring me the rest of the way. The bus company we took was called Kalita, meaning speed or swiftness or something like that, but this was no express. The packed bus bounced along through villages and pot holes at probably an average of 35-40 miles an hour.

The bus would slow down in some of the villages, and people with woven baskets of grilled corn, chapati, and chicken or goat on a stick would come and hold their goods up to the windows. If people seemed interested (aka reaching through the windows or shouting) the bus would stop and let the vendors on. Having had very little for breakfast, I was very hungry and it was delicious, each time. And cheap. $ 1 US is about 2240 Ugandan shillings, or was when I got my money exchanged. These snacks were less than 1500 shillings.

The ride took much longer than expected, mostly due to poor road conditions or construction, and finally we arrived and met Mercy, the director of the IT department at the Kagando Hospital and who I would be working with, and her husband and 3 year old son, Martin, who was adorable. Also they had just got a kitten while waiting which was sitting in a box in the car, also adorable. From Fort Portal we drove about 2 hours, I think I fell asleep for a bit.

When I arrived at the guest house where I would be staying I met Geoff, a delightfully entertaining old chap from Manchester, England, who had been at KARUDEC working on a project introducing bio-sand filters for turning river water into perfectly clean drinking water, free of E. coli and everything else. Its really quite incredible actually, you just run the water through SAND and a few rocks in a large pot with a drain from the bottom and it cleans it of everything. I cannot imagine a better solution exists for those who live in these conditions.

After resting for a bit, dinner was ready at 7:30, and it more or less hit the spot, consisting of rice, goat? stew?, and creamy chunks of avocado. We were joined by John, another older gentleman from the UK, who was here working with an orphanage near by. Everything the kitchen at the guest house where I am staying is safe to eat. Jolie and Alice, who run the guest house and prepare the food, are probably only a few years older than myself. The guest house is part of the hospital and is one of its few revenue sources. I think all of that revenue comes from foreigners volunteers like us.

There happened to be a party going on that night at the Clay House, the other living center where some of the medical interns/volunteer nurses etc. were staying. It turned out to be a going away party for some Belgian nurses, but at least I got to meet the other volunteers there.

And so, finally, my journey had ended. For three weeks, I will stay here and do what I can to help a number of electrical and IT issues impeding the development of the hospital and school here.

[Pictures coming soon...]